Blake Vs Goodyear Welt
The blake also allows for resoling once the outer sole has seen the best of pounding the pavement and inclement weather but is less hardy than the goodyear and these types of blake stitched shoes should be avoided when wet weather is forecasted.
Blake vs goodyear welt. Style blake vs. The following is why i prefer the blake stitch over the goodyear welt. They have a wide variety of construction methods for every aspect of the shoe and these options all have their pros and cons. From a picture like this it can be difficult to tell if it s a goodyear welted or blake stitched shoe.
Without question one should always go with a stitched shoe either goodyear welt or blake stitch versus a shoe that cements the the sole to the shoe. As the blake method has a far simpler construction with a single stitch than that of a goodyear welt this also directly affects the price point of blake stitched shoes compared to their goodyear brothers. We re going to look at shoe welting and what you need to know when making a decision on the. The cons while a blake can be resoled it needs a specific blake machine to do so making it much more difficult and sometimes expensive than resoling with a goodyear welt.
Shoes made using the blake stitch go without a welt altogether. Lastly because it has fewer layers than a goodyear welt a blake welted sole is more flexible. In fact a shoe made using blake construction goes without a welt altogether. Of course there are plenty of other ways to go about attaching shoes to soles.
While fewer layers make the sole for flexible they also make it less water resistant. The blake stitch is used more in italian shoes where the upper is sewn directly to the sole says taffel. As you can see from the illustration the goodyear welting process is a bit more intricate than the earlier blake methods as it makes use of a new type of machinery one able to make a curved stitch through the upper insole and the newly implemented welt. Likewise blake welted shoes are somewhat more difficult to re sole than their goodyear welted counterparts.
They are however far lighter than goodyear welted shoes and typically less expensive as well. Blake construction in terms of both structure and aesthetic is a little more removed than that of the previous goodyear and storm welts. Then turn the shoe around and the stitching pattern might give you a clue. It simply uses a single channeled stitch running straight from the outsole through to the interior to hold the different elements of the shoe together.
If the stitching is not following the outsole around fully then it s an indication that it might be blake stitched. The welt showdown quality shoes are complex. Modern goodyear welting also makes use of the rapid stitch keeping the welt midsole and outsole together which makes for a sturdy construction. Aptly named the storm welt is generally considered to offer greater moisture protection than a simple goodyear welt.
Blake welting has become an integral part of the tradition of fine italian shoe construction whereas goodyear welting is more common in english shoes. Dack s signature dufferin is a fine example of a goodyear storm welted shoe.